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Orb Photography


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#1 CaveRat2

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 08:18 AM

Most of us are convinced that orbs as seen in the majority of photos are dust, pollen, moisture, etc. They are a result of flash reflection from these objects outside the focal range of our cameras. I add the criterea that a genuine orb is going to be self illuminating and either illuminating other objects in the picture or causing those objects to cast shadows.

Some take the position that photographing using IR will indicate true orbs. That is not so, because IR will reflect just as visible light does, only you can't visually see it. But the camera can.

I would propose another method using the self illuminating criterea. that is photography in totlal darkness. If a camera were placed in a totally dark room, the shutter opened remotely by the operator(as in the old "bulb" setting on an SLR camera), and no light present the film will remain unexposed. The camera might be left this way for hours without anything appearing in the picture. However should a self illuminating orb be present, its light will expose the film. Even an orb of this nature out of the field of view may illuminate objects in the room. At the conclusion of the time period desired, the operator either enters the room in total darkness, or (more preferable) remotely releases the shutter. The exposure stops and anything caught will be on the picture. Care would have to be taken that no external light could enter the target area from a window or outside durring the observation of course.

#2 PhenomInvestigator

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 04:57 PM

Makes perfect sense. One would have to be careful analyzing the data since it would be possible to fake such a shot with black-art techniques. Otherwise, this long-forgotten approach might be worth reviving under controlled conditions.

It would be a good idea to carefully document the ambient low light levels (since I highly doubt you are able to achieve optical black, so a highly sensitive luminometer would be helpful) as well as the type of camera, exposure duration and film stock if this you are analog imaging.

It might also be useful to investigate having a look at the UV spectrum. We have been spending quite a bit of effort on the IR but not much on the UV. I would like to see more effort in this area just above the visible spectrum - it might pay off.
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#3 CaveRat2

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 05:10 PM

Certainly worth trying this in various spectra, both IR and UV. I proposed in in visible light for simplicity, but if one were to use the proper film and / or filters, it could be tried and differing results analyzed.

#4 Seeker

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 06:44 PM

You could get near full darkness by choosing a night with no moon and covering windows. I can think of the perfect place to do it but don't have the equipment.
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#5 wayne2241

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Posted 04 July 2008 - 10:00 AM

Another idea is to use a 3-d camera setup, similar to stereoscopic photography. These allow people to see the photograph in 3 dimensions far more effectively than the standard 2 dimension photo. The camera takes just one picture, but using two lenses spaced a specific distance apart. It is akin to what you see with both eyes, with the lenses as eyes if that makes sense. Using one of these cameras (they do come in digital and film format) allows you to better judge how far away from the camera the anomolous object is. Using this with the knowledge of the focal length of the camera and the distances of objects (not the anomoly) in the picture from the camera will help eliminate passing off false positives as evidence.

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#6 CaveRat2

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Posted 04 July 2008 - 10:27 AM

A good idea. Since 3D requires the cameras be a set distance apart,( usually about 4 - the same as your eyes) any dust particle which is close enough to either lens to create the orb effect would likely be entirely out of range of the second camare. This would be akin to using stereo for EVP where an EVP showing up on one channel should, if its real, also be present on the other as well.




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